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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • absolutely recommend. i use the fine bevel (cone truncated at an angle) and regular? chisel tips. i don’t really like rounded cone tips, not enough surface contact.

    do get the silicone usb cable, so you can solder with a (65W for full output) USB-C battery pack or charger.

    there are some great 3D printable carrying cases too.

    only caveat is the thing is so light, bumping the cable can knock it loose from a stand if its not enclosed.

    also, don’t listen to peeps who say they don’t even tighten the screw when swapping tips. really bad idea.



  • you could take my model and replace the cylindrical column spacing for pinkie and index with a flat spacing to have something less intense.

    i don’t have a clone, but it would be easy to do, for the dactyl fingers. the columns have a standard spacing I believe and the rows are placed on a cylinder with some radius and and a fixed angle (π/32 radians maybe?). then you can either replicate the column and Z stagger they use or tune your own.

    the DM thumb is actively bad for me tho so if start with a simple 3 key arc (i think there is a tester for the arc placement) and add and remove keys as you try it out.



  • my suggestion is to use a skeleton-edition style case so you print the minimum amount needed, and reuse the base plate. ie print only thumb plate til you get the position close, etc.

    I’ve build a framework for this approach: https://github.com/wolfwood/tryadactyl

    trying to link the keyboard parameters to measurable features of your hand helps some, but honestly there’s no substitute for typing on it and realizing what you don’t like :)

    i’ve has a recent breakthrough (implementing hierarchical/delegated column placement) that makes merging multiple plates with differing centers of rotation just work when switching from an open case style to a closed case.