I have some Fiberology PA12+CF15 blend (link) from a long time ago and recently got around to using it. I am amazed to say the least! It prints easier than PETG, even without an enclosure. Only downside is that it is much more expensive per kg, although it is lower density so I don’t seem to be going through it as quickly as other filaments.
I recently purchased some PC Blend with CF from Prusa as well. I haven’t gotten to print it yet, but I’ve heard very good things about it, too.
What less common filaments do you fine folks like using?
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Maybe more in the “less mainstream” category rather than exotic, but I love ColorFabb varioshore TPU. I really like the texture and slight squishiness it gets at 220°, also floats. I also use it in lots of places where I don’t really need a semi flexible, it’s surprisingly handy.
For exotics, as in “need to scour the internet to find”, eSun ePC is a personal favorite. Prints very cleanly at 270°, looks great, very little warp, super durable. Nasty fumes, though.
Edit: a lot easier to get hold of now, must have been a production hiccup last time I needed some.CC3D Silk Metallics are just fun (as long as you don’t get any retraction jams), so shiny!
100% PHA! It’s better structurally than PLA in a lot of ways, it’s fully biodegradable in any biome, and it’s just got a really pleasant feel to it
I like ABS/ASA because it sands and polishes really nice.
By far the strongest filament I have made structural parts from is Prusament PC blend.
you might also like the metal-fills. I use protopasta’s bronze and and iron fill. You can get pretty decent finishes. More interestingly, you can let them tarnish/rust (or, you know, help that along,)
Got a few friends that keep bringing reels of the stuff around for their cosplay builds. expensive as hell, though.
Can you vapor smooth ASA?
Yes, it’s soluble in acetone, quite similar to ABS.
eSun PA-HT CF - nylon and CF in a 290C extrusion temp mix. My biggest problem is that I’ve never managed to get the support settings right so supports tend to be structurally bonded to the part and require a dremel to remove.
The other is the eSun PA-LW, which I haven’t found a good use for yet because it’s so @#$@#%$%@ oozy that it pretty much only produces a decent part when in spiral mode. Makes fantastically light parts though.
What is PA-LW like as far as hardness?
I dusted off a sealed roll of polymaker natural ASA for my CR10 V2 pro, trying to print parts for my motorcycle and cars that were previously printed in PLA+. So far a few large parts have warped about 2/3rds of the way through. I purchased a PEI magnetic bed and am now using an enclosure. The benchy i printed looks perfect tho. If i can get it dialed in, i think it will be my favorite.
If you still have trouble with ASA, get a large trash bag and place everything inside it upside down. The bag will definitely seal everything inside.
Now that’s a fantastic budget idea, thank you. I may try exactly that on my smaller printer. I have my CR10 in a comgrow enclosure now and it’s currently 7.5hrs into a 12hr print and it seems to be adhering better to the new PEI bed. Fingers crossed.
I love ASA for exterior fixes around the house. Durable, stable, but - as you’ve found - a bit finnicky about warping.
Fiberology pa12cf15 is amazing!
I also really liked HIPS because its strong and can easily be postprocessed
That’s another new one for me. Do you have an enclosure? Thanks for sharing!
Yes, I have an enclose, but just passively heated by the bedheater
