I’ve recently picked up climbing as a hobby (3 weeks ago) and I’m struggling to do the majority of the V3s that I attempt. I’m able to do V1s and V2s pretty easily, but there are specific techniques or tricks in V3s that I guess I haven’t picked up yet (e.g. crimping, heel hooks, dynos).

Do you folks have any suggestions or routines on how to improve and progress? How was your first experience with climbing?

Edit: Thanks a ton for the advice! It seems I’ve been spoiled by my progression from v0-v2, so I was expecting v3 to take a similar amount of time. It seems that I’ll need to think a lot more about these problems!

  • scutiger@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    It’s very common for people who get into climbing or bouldering to get hooked and obsess over getting better.

    For at least the first few months, your body is going to get used to the strain that you put on it. The easier grades in the gyms will all typically be much easier on the joints and soft tissues (ligaments and tendons) which take a long time to strengthen compared to muscles. Crimping in particular is something to be careful with. Look up photos for the difference between a half crimp and a full crimp. Avoid full crimps as much as possible because they are very strenuous and an easy way to get injured, especially as a beginner.

    That said, more than specific training, what will help you progress is practice. Climbing is a skill-based sport, and is a lot more about positioning and balance than it is about strength.

    A few things to keep in mind:

    First things first, learn how to fall safely. Never put your hands down while trying to catch yourself, and try to roll onto your back when you fall. Letting yourself crumple over onto your back is much safer than trying to land standing up on your feet. You’re a lot less likely to roll an ankle or strain your knees, and will save future you from back and joint pain.
    Keep your feet on the wall, and push with your legs instead of pulling with your arms.
    Use your legs and hips to adjust your center of balance to be able to move better and avoid “barn-dooring”. Look up flagging, for example.
    Avoid over-gripping. As a beginner, you do this for sure. You only want to grip the holds as lightly as possible so that you’re not falling off.
    Keeping your hips closer to the wall helps keep your weight on your feet and allows you to reach higher.
    Use your toes on the holds, not the middle of your foot.

    Last of all, don’t worry too much about chasing grades, and focus on having fun.