• staticblanket@lemmy.ca
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    12
    ·
    7 months ago

    Look at that subtle off-white coloring. The tasteful thickness of it. Oh my God, it even has a watermark…

  • LazaroFilm@lemmy.worldOP
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    12
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    edit-2
    7 months ago

    This is 16 awg silicone dual core wire with a gold ParaMax sleeve (bigger than standard Paracord). The connectors are Lemo 2B on the left and Fischer on the right. This cable is to power a 35mm film camera (ARRICAM LT) on a Steadicam (XCS).

  • Wrench@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    10
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    7 months ago

    Is there a purpose to doing this besides being a esthetically pleasing?

    • LazaroFilm@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      23
      ·
      7 months ago

      They’re custom cables that have to be made to order as they’re all different. Also I use silicone wires which have a high heat resistance and very flexible but any small cut can tear the coating. So it needs to be protected with a sleeve. Plus it’s easier to find your personal calbles on set when they’re color coded (steadicam operators usually come with their own custom power cables for their steadicam but then also use cables from the camera package. And I’ve lost cables when they get mistakenly returned to the rental houses.

      • Wrench@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        4
        ·
        7 months ago

        Makes total sense! I imagine it can get pretty chaotic as things are being stood up and torn down, moved from location to location. Cool solution!

  • WxFisch@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    4
    ·
    7 months ago

    I’d be interested in a tutorial on this. I’d love to make some cables like this for the home stereo system and AV system.

    • LazaroFilm@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      17
      ·
      7 months ago
      1. Remove the core of your Paracord (you need 1.5x of Paracord to wire length about (depending on wire thickness)
      2. Sleeve the Paracord over your wire. That’s the hard part. (My trick has been to solder a length of thick magnet wire to one side of the wire and use it as a needle to guide the wire down the sleeve.
      3. Add all the heat shrinks and connector sleeves you need
      4. Solder your connectors
      5. Look at your cable with a smirk
      6. Take photos of your cables
      7. Post on Lemmy
  • j4k3@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    4
    ·
    7 months ago

    Perfect headphones connector how?

    I can never seem to get the solder joints perfect with the enamel and fiber in the center.

    • LazaroFilm@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      13
      ·
      edit-2
      7 months ago

      A good quality iron with temperature control, tip cleaner, a good copper sponge (no wet sponge), and a copious amount of no clean flux. Also I have switched to silicone wires inside the sleeves because they don’t melt, but they can tear if not protected by a Paracord sleeve. Also, I use a 3rd hand with 4 goose neck and a magic arm with nano clamp. Final tip: practice. It takes a while and a lot of mess ups to get it right.